1. Maintain your mowing height at 2.5 to 3.5 inches with a frequency of once per week. A good rule of thumb is to never take off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mowing. Leave the clippings in the turf—it’s a good source of nutrients.
2. Maintain adequate soil moisture by irrigating deep (6 to 8 inches) and infrequent. You should always check the soil moisture prior to irrigation with a soil probe or screwdriver. After you irrigate, check the moisture again to see just how deep the moisture penetrated.
3. Based on the soil analysis taken in January, apply the proper fertilizer evenly throughout your lawn. If you already applied a balanced fertilizer in April, (i.e. 15-5-10), then use one that has only a nitrogen source, such as ammonium sulfate (21-0-0; quick release fertilizer). Do not apply more than 1.0 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet with a quick release fertilizer; do not apply more than 1.5 to 2.0 pounds of actual nitrogen with a slow release fertilizer. Apply the total amount of fertilizer needed in two directions to ensure even distribution. Irrigate your lawn immediately after you fertilize. CAUTION: Do not apply fertilizer to your lawn when the leaves are wet (dew, rain, irrigation, etc.). Consider using a chelated iron application from June thru August on a monthly basis.
4. Begin observing your lawn for signs of insect damage. Examples of problematic insects include: white grubs, chinch bugs, sod webworms, cutworms, etc.. After you have identified the insect causing the damage to your turf, immediately apply the proper insecticide. Again, always read the label carefully.

1. Maintain your mowing height at 2.5 inches with a frequency of once per week.  A good rule of thumb is to never take off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mowing.  Leave the clippings in the turf—it’s a good source of nutrients.
2. Maintain adequate soil moisture by irrigating deep (6 to 8 inches) and infrequent.  You should always check the soil moisture prior to irrigation with a soil probe or screwdriver.  After you irrigate, check the moisture again to see just how deep the moisture penetrated.
3. Begin observing your lawn for signs of insect damage.  Examples of problematic insects include:  white grubs, cutworms, armyworms, etc..  For white grubs, you normally get a straw-colored, dead appearance.  A good method for testing for these ugly white grubs is to pull up on the turf—if it comes up easy, then it could be white grub damage.  Dig into that area to check.  After you have identified the insect causing the damage to your turf, immediately apply the proper insecticide.  Again, always read the label carefully.

 

1. Maintain your mowing height at 1.5 inches with a frequency of once per week.  A good rule of thumb is to never take off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mowing.  Leave the clippings in the turf—it’s a good source of nutrients.
2. Maintain adequate soil moisture by irrigating deep (6 to 8 inches) and infrequent.  You should always check the soil moisture prior to irrigation with a soil probe or screwdriver.  After you irrigate, check the moisture again to see just how deep the moisture penetrated.
3. Based on the soil analysis taken in January, apply the proper fertilizer evenly throughout your lawn.  If you already applied a balanced fertilizer in April, (i.e. 15-5-10), then use one that has only a nitrogen source, such as ammonium sulfate (21-0-0; quick release fertilizer).  Do not apply less than 0.75 pound or more than 1.0 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet with a quick release fertilizer; do not apply less than 1.0 pound or more than 1.5 pounds of actual nitrogen with a slow release fertilizer.  Apply the total amount of fertilizer needed in two directions to ensure even distribution.  Irrigate your lawn immediately after you fertilize.  CAUTION:  Do not apply fertilizer to your lawn when the leaves are wet (dew, rain, irrigation, etc.).  Consider using a chelated iron application from June thru August on a monthly basis.
4. Begin observing your lawn for signs of insect damage.  Examples of problematic insects include:  white grubs, sod webworms, cutworms, mites, etc..  After you have identified the insect causing the damage to your turf, immediately apply the proper insecticide.  Again, always read the label carefully.

1. Maintain your mowing height at 1.5 inches with a frequency of at least once per week.  A good rule of thumb is to never take off more than 1/3 of the leaf blade per mowing.  Leave the clippings in the turf—it’s a good source of nutrients.
2. Maintain adequate soil moisture by irrigating deep (6 to 8 inches) and infrequent.  You should always check the soil moisture prior to irrigation with a soil probe or screwdriver.  After you irrigate, check the moisture again to see just how deep the moisture penetrated.
3. Based on the soil analysis taken in January, apply the proper fertilizer evenly throughout your lawn.  If you already applied a balanced fertilizer in April, (i.e. 15-5-10), then use one that has only a nitrogen source, such as ammonium sulfate (21-0-0; quick release fertilizer).  Do not apply less than 0.75 pound or more than 1.0 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet with a quick release fertilizer; do not apply less than 1.0 pound or more than 1.5 pounds of actual nitrogen with a slow release fertilizer.  Apply the total amount of fertilizer needed in two directions to ensure even distribution.  Irrigate your lawn immediately after you fertilize.  CAUTION:  Do not apply fertilizer to your lawn when the leaves are wet (dew, rain, irrigation, etc.).  Consider using a chelated iron application from June thru August on a monthly basis.
4. Begin observing your lawn for signs of insect damage.  Examples of problematic insects include:  white grubs, sod webworms, cutworms, mites, billbugs, etc..  After you have identified the insect causing the damage to your turf, immediately apply the proper insecticide.  Again, always read the label carefully.