Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Dormant brown is normal resting turf, not dead grass. Minimize foot traffic. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

If winter annual broadleaf weeds are present and grass/label conditions allow, spot-treat. Do not invent a spray day if weeds are absent. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Review last soil-test pH. Bermuda often prefers about 6.0–7.0. Amend only if the test says so; do not apply lime or sulfur on a calendar. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. If no rainfall for a long stretch and soil is very dry, water deeply once rather than frequent shallow watering. Otherwise leave systems off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Plan spring preemergent before summer annuals. Monitor soil temperature and the germination window of the weeds you are targeting, and follow the product label for timing. Do not treat the week number or a single temperature as a universal trigger. Product must be labeled for bermudagrass. Activate per label. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Inspect for fire ants or other winter-active pests. Treat only if present, with a product labeled for the site. Uneven spots can be planned for a thin sand-and-compost leveling blend compatible with your soil, usually somewhere in February. Do not dump a heavy layer on dormant grass. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Keep leaves raked so sunlight reaches the crown as spring approaches. Uneven spots can be planned for a thin sand-and-compost leveling blend compatible with your soil, usually somewhere in February. Do not dump a heavy layer on dormant grass. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Usually no mowing while dormant. If any winter growth appears, prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation off or nearly off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Check soil first; water deeply only during an extended dry spell, not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Nitrogen belongs on a lawn that is fully green and actively growing, not during dormancy.

Sharpen blades and stage the late-winter cleanup cut for next week if the lawn and weather are ready. February is the usual window to plan leveling uneven spots with a thin sand-and-compost blend compatible with your soil — not an automatic dormant dump. Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. A late-winter cleanup to about ½ in is optional only if the lawn and weather allow it, the cut will not scalp into soil, and there is no frost or stress. Do not force this cut. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Keep irrigation minimal. Moisten only if soil is extremely dry before or after a cleanup cut. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize yet. Hold fertilizer until the lawn is fully green, actively growing, and has needed a few regular mowings.

Do not force a cleanup cut if soil is soft or saturated, frost is a risk, or the one-third rule cannot be kept. Plan any leveling as a thin sand-and-compost layer for when the lawn is healthy and growing — not a heavy dump on dormant turf. Bare thin areas under trees are a shade problem; topdressing will not fix them. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Resume light mowing only if green tissue is present. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Begin watching soil moisture as days warm. Avoid routine daily watering of dormant or barely waking turf. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Feed only green, growing grass, after you've mowed it three times. If you are leveling uneven spots, a thin sand-and-compost topdress after cleanup is a local option, not a fertilizer feeding.

If the surface is uneven, a thin sand-and-compost topdress compatible with your soil is a local option after cleanup, when the lawn is healthy and actively growing so it can recover. Keep each layer about ⅛ in so blades stay visible. Thick layers smother grass. Bare thin areas under trees need more sun or a different plant; topdressing will not fix shade. Not required every year on every lawn. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Begin regular mowing as green-up progresses. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Shift toward deep watering when growth resumes. Check soil in the root zone and stop if water runs off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Water when the lawn needs it — not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Feed only green, growing grass, after you've mowed it three times.

As soil warms, begin the active-growth watering mindset. Still check soil before each irrigation. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Mow near 1 in as regular growth returns. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Shift toward deep watering when growth resumes. Check soil in the root zone and stop if water runs off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Water when the lawn needs it — not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Feed only green, growing grass, after you've mowed it three times.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Begin regular mowing as green-up progresses. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. When growth is active, water deeply and infrequently when the lawn needs it. Check soil in the root zone and stop if water runs off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Feed only green, growing grass, after you've mowed it three times.

Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Begin regular mowing as green-up progresses. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Shift toward deep watering when growth resumes. Check soil in the root zone and stop if water runs off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Water when the lawn needs it — not on a blind daily schedule. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Feed only green, growing grass, after you've mowed it three times.

Spot-treat emerging weeds only if present, grass is actively growing, and the product label allows use on bermudagrass. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Mow often enough to stay near about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly later only if heat or stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply and infrequently. Use wilt or blue-gray color as a cue, not a fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. This can be a first feeding week after you've mowed the green, growing grass three times. If the lawn is not fully green and actively growing, or you have not mowed it three times yet, wait. Choose a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8 (a 2:1:1 ratio). Use the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn; do not use the same rate for a different analysis. A soil test is a helpful way to check phosphorus and potassium needs, but it is not required before this feeding.

TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Mow often enough to stay near about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly later only if heat or stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply and infrequently. Use wilt or blue-gray color as a cue, not a fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait if you already made a spring feeding. If you missed it and the lawn is fully green and actively growing after you've mowed it three times, you may feed once now using a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8, at the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn. Do not start a weekly feeding habit.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Mow often enough to stay near about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly later only if heat or stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply and infrequently. Use wilt or blue-gray color as a cue, not a fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval before you feed again. Do not apply fertilizer every week.

Consider dethatching only if a thick thatch layer is actually limiting water/air. Not an annual automatic job. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Mow often enough to stay near about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly later only if heat or stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply and infrequently. Use wilt or blue-gray color as a cue, not a fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval before you feed again. Do not apply fertilizer every week.

Scout for white grubs if you see damage. Treat only if needed with a labeled product. No automatic insecticide week. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Mow often enough to stay near about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly later only if heat or stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply and infrequently. Use wilt or blue-gray color as a cue, not a fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. This can be another feeding week if the lawn is fully green and actively growing, it is not under drought or heat stress, and enough time has passed since the last application according to the product label. If you already fed recently, wait. Use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8. Use the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn; do not use the same rate for a different analysis.

TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Mow often enough to stay near about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly later only if heat or stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply and infrequently. Use wilt or blue-gray color as a cue, not a fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval before you feed again. Do not apply fertilizer every week.

A second preemergent window for late-summer weeds depends on soil temperature, the weeds you are targeting, and the product label—not a single universal temperature. Bermuda-labeled product only. Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Peak growth: expect mowing every 3–5 days. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Deep watering about once per week is a planning starting point in heat if rainfall is absent; adjust by soil and stress signs. Do not water a saturated lawn. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. This can be a mid-season feeding week if the lawn is fully green and actively growing, it is not under extreme heat or drought stress, and the label interval since the last application has passed. If those conditions are not met, wait. Use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8. Apply at the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn; do not use the same rate for a different analysis.

TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Scout for chinch bugs and armyworms as temperatures rise. Treat only after identification, with labeled products. Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Aerate only if compaction is limiting roots/water. Not required every summer on every lawn. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. If extreme heat is stressing the lawn, raise height slightly rather than scalp. Prefer about 1–1½ in only when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Watch for disease symptoms in hot, wet patterns. Fungicide only if needed after identification; cultural fixes first (mowing, water, fertility). No automatic spray. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. During extended drought, increase irrigation enough to relieve stress, then return to deep, infrequent watering. Avoid constant saturation. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Wilting or blue-gray color means it is time to water deeply. That cue beats any fixed calendar. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. This can be another nitrogen feeding week if the lawn is fully green and actively growing, it is not under drought or heat stress, and the label interval since the last application has passed. If you already fed recently or the lawn is stressed, wait. Use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8, at the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn.

Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Keep mowing often in peak growth. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Do not scalp into crowns in heat. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Continue scouting fire ants, grubs and armyworms. Treat only as needed after ID. Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. High heat can increase water need. Adjust by soil and canopy stress, not by watering every day out of habit. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Dollar spot or brown patch can appear in stressful patterns. Confirm before treating; fix water/fertility/mowing first when possible. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Peak growth: mow every 3–5 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Raise slightly rather than scalp if heat stress appears. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water deeply when the lawn shows drought stress or soil is dry. Established TifTuf often needs less water than older hybrids such as Tifway 419 in good soil, but West Texas heat still requires monitoring. Do not keep soil constantly saturated. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. Check the date of your last application and the product label interval. Skip fertilizer during extreme heat or drought stress.

Fall preemergent for winter weeds: plan by weed history and label timing before dormancy. Bermuda-labeled product only. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. This can be an optional late-season feeding if the lawn is still fully green and actively growing, and well before dormancy. If growth is already slowing or the lawn is stressed, wait. Use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8, at the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn. Avoid pushing tender new growth late into fall.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Preventative fungicide is not an automatic calendar requirement. Scout; treat only if disease pressure and label support it. Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut watering frequency toward every two weeks or less as cool weather returns, unless soil is dry and grass is still growing. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Grubs can still be active. Treat only if damage/ID warrants and the product is labeled. Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Spot-treat fall weeds only if present and labeled for bermudagrass at current growth stage. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Continue mowing until growth stops. Do not quit early and leave a shaggy canopy if growth continues. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Keep leaves from smothering the turf. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Growth slows: mow every 7–10 days as needed. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Continue until growth stops. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait unless the lawn is still fully green and actively growing and you have not already applied a late-season feeding. If growth has slowed or the lawn is heading into dormancy, skip. Do not fertilize dormant turf or force a late-fall growth flush. If you do feed, use a fertilizer with more nitrogen than phosphorus or potassium, such as 16-8-8, at the label rate for a bermudagrass lawn.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Reduce mowing frequency as growth slows toward dormancy. Prefer about 1–1½ in when conditions allow. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Cut back frequency as nights cool. Prefer deep watering when needed over frequent light runs. Overwatering in fall can favor disease. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. No new feeding is needed this week. If you already made a late-season application, do not feed again. Avoid pushing new growth as the lawn heads toward dormancy.

Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. Mow only if growth continues; otherwise park the mower. No mandatory winter cut. Avoid traffic that scars dormant turf. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Favor deep, infrequent watering while residual growth remains. Goal is roots, not daily surface wetness. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Save fertilizer for next spring after the lawn is fully green and actively growing.

Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Mow only if growth continues; otherwise park the mower. No mandatory winter cut. Avoid traffic that scars dormant turf. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Water every 2–3 weeks only if no rain and soil is very dry. Otherwise leave off. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Save fertilizer for next spring after the lawn is fully green and actively growing.

TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Final mowing only if growth has essentially stopped or is stopping. No mandatory winter cut. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation mostly off. Water only during extended dry periods if soil is extremely dry — not on a blind daily schedule. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Save fertilizer for next spring after the lawn is fully green and actively growing.

Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.

Mow. Mow only if growth continues; otherwise park the mower. No mandatory winter cut. Avoid traffic that scars dormant turf. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation mostly off. Water only during extended dry periods if soil is extremely dry — not on a blind daily schedule. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Save fertilizer for next spring after the lawn is fully green and actively growing.

Clean and sharpen mower; remove debris. Optional light thatch cleanup if a mat remains; not a harsh scalp. Hybrid Bermuda is a sun grass — under trees it often goes very thin.

Mow. No routine mowing while fully dormant. Stay off the lawn when possible. No mandatory winter cut. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation mostly off. Water only during extended dry periods if soil is extremely dry — not on a blind daily schedule. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Save fertilizer for next spring after the lawn is fully green and actively growing.

Deep shade under trees is a poor place for Bermuda; thin turf there is usually a light problem, not something more water or fertilizer will fix.

Mow. Mow only if growth continues; otherwise park the mower. No mandatory winter cut. Avoid traffic that scars dormant turf. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation mostly off. Water only during extended dry periods if soil is extremely dry — not on a blind daily schedule. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Save fertilizer for next spring after the lawn is fully green and actively growing.

Watch for odd winter stress or disease patches; most dormant color change is normal. TifTuf can handle a bit more partial sun than older hybrids such as Tifway 419, but it is still not a shade grass.

Mow. Mow only if growth continues; otherwise park the mower. No mandatory winter cut. Avoid traffic that scars dormant turf. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf. Sharp blade. Bagging optional for appearance; leaving clippings is fine.

Water. Irrigation mostly off. Water only during extended dry periods if soil is extremely dry — not on a blind daily schedule. Early morning is better than evening if you water. Measure output with catch cans or a known runtime, and subtract rainfall. Follow local rules.

Feed. Wait. Do not fertilize dormant bermudagrass. Winter is a good time to have a soil test if you want one — it is the best way to learn whether phosphorus or potassium are needed — but a test is not required before every feeding next year.

Plan next year: soil test, calendar of PRE windows, and product needs. Review what worked this year. Don't expect thick hybrid Bermuda under a heavy tree canopy. Open the canopy or use a shade-tolerant plant there — topdressing will not fix shade.